South Australia

Kimba SA

Mildura disappears in the rear vision mirror as we venture into Victoria’s western regions along the Murray River. As soon as the river disappears the land looks harsh and unproductive until you add water by irrigation and suddenly vineyards appear along with almond orchards and all sorts of citrus trees. The vines which are covered with plastic are obviously for table grapes while the others are used for wine. Lots of them are being picked- by hand for the table grapes and by machine for wine. AS you drive along Mildura’s streets you even had to give way to tractors towing trailers full of grapes.

Next port of call was Renmark after passing through the quarantine station. Just as well we didn’t have anything to get fined for as they are now fining anyone with anything not allowed into SA

Waikerie was now the aim as they have a new silo art which is certainly impressive and covers lots of the features of the area. Waikerie is a tidy town on the Murray River with all the facilities you would need as well as lots of water activities. We overnighted there beside the river in a free camp.

Leaving there the next morning we crossed the river by ferry which is so much more interesting than driving over a bridge. Onward to Morgan where we had morning tea. This small town was once the second largest port in SA after Adelaide where wool and wheat were railed in and then shipped down the river. Leaving the river behind we travelled on to Burra, the country becoming drier the further west we went Last time we were here the area was green but now the hills were bare and brown. Mind you it was winter the last time we visited which means rainy season here.

The wind picked up from the west as we drove towards Port Augusta and was horrible by the time, we got there so that was as far as we went that day. Along the way there was evidence of sand drifts beside the road where the topsoil had been blown showing the effects of the continual drought here. In some places the fences were covered and there was only about 30cm of fence above the sand drift-not very effective to keep animals in a paddock.  At some point the winds were more than 55 KPH and for most of the day were around 30-35. They blew all night and even though our van was in a relatively sheltered area it still got buffeted.

With the wind slightly better we again set off and headed towards the centre of the drive from east to west – Kimba. Mind you it was an interesting drive what with wind, though not a head wind again, as well as a dust storm which sprung up from the south west as we neared Kimba. Kimba also has a silo which has been decorated so there appears to be a theme developing this trip with silos and water tanks. Tonight, at the donation rest area there are at least 30 vans and motorhomes – might have something to do with the wind which would be playing havoc with those heading east.

A Slight Detour

The last time we were in this area we missed Murphy’s Haystacks so this time we made sure we were going to see them. This meant a slight detour from the western movement as we headed south west towards Elliston on the west coast of Eyre Peninsula. Along the way we travelled through wheat fields which have been harvested or made into hay. The other thing of note were the old stone fences where the farmers of the past piled the many rocks into something useful. Elliston is a small village on the coast which seems to specialize in fishing and surfing. Here there is a cliff drive to see various sights along the cliffs as well as several sculptures which have been placed at places where you can stop for a photo opportunity. At the top of this drive there is Cape Finniss where if you are keen and agile you can go surfing. First you have to climb down the cliff and launch yourself into the water and reverse the procedure when you’re finished. There was quite a few surfing there though so the waves must have been good.

We then headed northwards towards Murphy’s Haystacks. These are actually granite rocks which stand out in the middle of a wheat and sheep farm and from the road resemble haystacks.  The other rocks in the area are not like these at all so they look strange This was our overnight stop with just 1 other caravan.

Ceduna

Heading out the next morning Streaky Bay was the first stop- a lovely little town with green grass and heaps of people who arrive on the Eyre Peninsula at this time of the year for the fishing and crabbing. Every second car had boat loaders on the roof. We didn’t stay but headed off towards Ceduna the last main stop before the Nullabor. We found a spot at the Shelly beach caravan park just on the edge of town with a bay location and are here for 2 days. Last time we passed through here we were heading east and all we did here was resupply the food cupboards and refueled and set off again so this time we have an opportunity to look around. There are heaps of fisher people here as well and they appear to spend some considerable time here each year. At least the mad panic that appears in larger cities with people stocking up doesn’t appear to be as frantic here although toilet paper is in short supply.